TUTORIAL ON THE SOFBLEND T-80 EPILATOR

Introduction

Before looking at how the Sofblend T-80 epilator can be used to best effect, we would like to clarify our understanding of some common terms in the field of electrology, just to ensure that we are "on the same wavelength". Electrolysis has become a generic term used by the public to describe hair removal using a needle with an electrical current. Electrologists use three modalities for hair root destruction, electrolysis (galvanic), thermolysis and blend.

Electrolysis

Technically, electrolysis uses negative direct current which flows from the ground electrode to the needle. This current is also called galvanic current, which simply means the therapeutic application of electricity to the body

Direct current, when passed through a saline solution causes a chemical reaction which converts the salt into sodium hydroxide, a very caustic alkaline chemical commonly referred to as lye. When a needle is inserted into the hair follicle, the body salts combine with moisture to form a saline solution, and these salts are converted to lye by the electrical current. The lye then attacks the tissue in the hair follicle to allowing the hair to be removed with almost no force. Thus, it is the lye which destroys the tissue and the electrical current is simply the agent used to generate the lye.

Unfortunately, electrolysis is generally a slow process, taking anything from 1 to 3 minutes to generate enough lye to cause the tissue destruction. The time required is affected by the client's 'moisture gradient', which is the amount of moisture in the skin layers. The skin structure is such that the deeper layers of the epidermis have the highest moisture content, whereas moisture is progressively less prevalent in the epithellum cells the closer one comes to the skin surface. With a low level of moisture, there is little lye generation, and even at deeper levels, the amount of lye generated varies from one person to another, which partially explains the wide variation in time required for epilation by electrolysis.

Note that when performed correctly, epilation by electrolysis is generally considered to be the most permanent method of hair removal, since the action of the lye causes sufficient tissue damage to prevent growth of new hair

Thermolysis

Thermolysis is a method of hair removal by means of heat applied to the follicle and surrounding tissue. Heat is generated in the follicle by means of high-frequency electrical energy and the process uses what is variously described as High Frequency (HF or Short Wave oscillation. When an HF signal is applied to the needle, it creates a field around the tip of the needle and because the field is changing polarity millions of times each second, friction occurs in the material around the needle, causing it to become heated. This is the principle behind a microwave oven. The shape of the heated area is called the Heating Pattern and is ideally pear-shaped.

Thermolysis works in one of two ways

• by electro-dessication where the temperature can reach 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees F). This method uses a high level of HF signal and the follicle can be completely dried out
• by electro-coagulation where the temperature reaches only around 50 degrees Celsius (127 degrees F) and the hair root and surrounding tissue coagulates into a thickened mass. A lower level of HF signal is used.

The effectiveness of thermolysis in epilation varies with

• the length of time the signal is applied
• the voltage (or level) of the HF signal
• the depth of needle/probe insertion
• the diameter of the needle/probe
• the client's moisture gradient

Epilators may be equipped to perform one or both of two types of thermolysis treatment

• 'Flash', using a very high voltage level automatically applied for a time as short as one tenth of a second
• 'Manual', using a lower voltage level and with timing extending to several seconds controlled by the electrologist.

Flash thermolysis takes far less time to epilate individual hairs than either electrolysis, regular thermolysis or blend. However, many more treatments per hair are required to achieve permanency. So although Flash may be seen by the client (and some electrologists) as a much faster method of removing hair, the client will require many more visits to the electrologist to achieve permanency, and some clients will claim that with Flash they never achieved permanent results. For this reason, the T~80 epilator does not provide the flash modality.

Manual blend

The Blend modality uses a combination of the electrolysis and thermolysis modes applied simultaneously. It is intended to combine the efficiency of electrolysis with the speed of thermolysis.

Manual blend (progressive epilation) generally epilates hairs in less than 10 seconds and requires the fewest number of treatments to achieve permanency. Many electrologists have been taught that the blend modality is simply a combination of electrolysis (galvanic) and thermolysis (HF) levels . However, this is not true. In order to accomplish manual blend it is very important to balance the two modalities so that they complement each other, otherwise one will dominate and diminish the effectiveness of blending.

If the thermolysis energy level is too high, the hair may epilate more quickly but a high level of thermolysis dries out the follicle, leaving little to be converted into lye, and when this happens, you will be epilating by thermolysis, even if you think you are using the blend method.

If the thermolysis level is too low, then the client may notice increased discomfort because the insertion times will be excessive and the thermolysis energy is contributing very little to the overall treatment. Generally speaking, blend insertion times should not exceed 10 seconds and it is the thermolysis element which determines how long blend should be applied.

When correctly applied, the HF current improves the effectiveness of the lye generated by galvanic current in three ways, by increasing the causticity of the lye, by increasing porosity in the follicle and by causing turbulence.

Also, it is important that after epilation by the blend method, an 'after-count' of pure galvanic current is applied for one or two seconds to improve the chances that re-growth will not occur. However, for finer hairs, the after-count is not usually required.

Auto blend (automatic or semi-automatic)

Auto blend is similar to manual blend, but may require more treatments than manual blend

Sofblend T-80

The Sofblend T-80 epilator is a three modality device which can be operated either as a manual or automatic epilator. When operated manually, the electrologist must press and hold down the foot pedal for as long as treatment of the follicle is required.

This is the method preferred for two-handed 'progressive epilation' known as manual blend and in this mode, when the pedal is released, a galvanic "after count" is added automatically. The automatic mode can be set up to perform electrolysis, thermolysis or blend epilation, and treatment starts a fixed time after insertion of the needle is detected. This delay time is adjustable to be between 1 and 3 seconds. The electrologist has no need to use the foot pedal, although treatment can be stopped before automatic time-out by pressing the pedal.

Electrolysis on the Sofblend T-80

The treatment level for electrolysis is defined by a measure called 'units-of-lye' which can be simply calculated by multiplying the current in milliamps by time in seconds by the number 10. The experienced electrologist can determine the amount of lye needed for a particular type of hair, with numbers being typically

• 15 units for very fine or vellus hair
• 45 units for medium
• 60 units for coarse
• 80 units for very coarse

These number are simply guidelines, and it is not necessary to be exact. For example, a current of 0.6 milliamps for 8 seconds gives 48 units of lye (0.6 x 8 x 10), which would probably be quite satisfactory for medium hairs.

Because galvanic treatment times are long, straight electrolysis should normally be performed in manual mode by using the foot pedal.

Thermolysis on the Sofblend T-80

Unlike electrolysis, there is no known standard for measuring the level of treatment and indeed, no standard definition of voltage level (r.m.s. voltage, peak voltage or peak-to-peak voltage). Therefore, the treatment level required to epilate a particular type of hair uses either past experience of the electrologist on a particular epilator or experimentation to determine a suitable level.

The Sofblend epilator shows the level as Intensity Level %, which is directly related to any of the three methods of voltage measurement, but is not an absolute value. For any given Intensity Level % , the HF energy can be applied as a single pulse (Pulse Count = 1), or can be pulsed on and off up to 8 times per single epilation (Pulse Count = 8). This "pulsing" is provided to spread the HF heating over a longer time and to keep the heating effect localized while reducing heat conducted up the needle itself.

At  the bottom of this page, there is a chart which shows the variation of Energy Level (or heating power) for any combination of Intensity Level % and Pulse Count. These Energy Level numbers not an absolute scientific measure, but are related to power, so that an increase from energy level 30 to 60 (for example) will double the amount of heat applied. The Intensity Level % is on a linear scale, whereas power is not (technically, it is related to voltage x voltage x time applied); therefore, in order to maintain some linearity in the Energy Level numbers shown, the time for which the HF is applied (as shown on page 21) seems to be wrong. For example, one might assume that it will take longer to epilate at 90% /1 pulse" than at "50% / 1 pulse", but the table says it takes less time. However, the timing numbers are correct, even if they don't seem to make sense.

Manual thermolysis on the Sofblend T-80

Set the epilator to full manual operation (solid 'P' in Delay Secs window). To determine the correct thermolysis level, switch the epilator to Thermolysis and epilate several hairs of similar thickness. We'll assume 45 unit hairs. Begin with Intensity Level % setting of 30 or 35 and if the time for epilation is around 8 to 10 seconds, you've found a good level. If it is longer, then increase the Intensity Level % setting.

You may find it necessary to adjust either of the settings by a small amount once you begin the regular treatment. The time and intensity settings are to some extent dependent upon the sensitivity of the client. However, if the client feels nothing, then in all probability, the follicle is not being treated correctly.

Automatic or Semi-Automatic thermolysis on the Sofblend T-80

Using auto insertion, or semi-automatic (foot pedal) set the Intensity Level % to 40 and a Pulse Count of 3. Try epilating one or two hairs and if they don't epilate properly, increase the Pulse Count or the Intensity Level % until they do.

You may find it necessary to adjust either of the settings by a small amount once you begin the regular treatment. The time and intensity settings are, to some extent, dependent upon the sensitivity of the client. However, if the client feels nothing, then in all probability, the follicle is not being treated correctly.

Manual Blend (progressive epilation using two hands)

In manual blend progressive epilation, it is first necessary to establish a treatment time by using thermolysis (HF) only.

• set the epilator for full 'Manual' operation (solid 'P' in Delay Secs window)
• press the Thermolysis button to disable the galvanic current.
• set the Intensity Level % to 30 or 35.
• epilate three hairs (press-and-hold the foot pedal).

After each hair has been epilated easily, observe the number of seconds taken, which in Manual mode appears in the Treatment Secs window of the epilator (see Footnote 1 below). If the hairs do not release in ten seconds, increase the Intensity Level % to 35 or 40 and try again; continue this process until you have epilated three hairs in under 10 seconds each.

• note the time it takes to epilate each of the three hairs (e.g. 8, 7 and 8 seconds) and use the average as your working time. In this example 8 is the nearest whole number.

You are now ready to work out the required units of lye for such a hair. Assuming the hair in considered to be medium, the units-of-lye should be around 45. Taking the 8 second benchmark established by thermolysis, divide 45 first by ten and then by 8 seconds to arrive at a galvanic current of 0.6 milliamps. (45/10/8 = 0.56). This number is rounded up to 0.6 milliamps.

• press the Blend button, and set the Needle Current to 0.6mA

'Progressive' epilation (using two hands) now continues in the Blend mode.

• press-and-hold the foot pedal, and while current is flowing, use the tweezers to apply light tension on the hair at a count of 4, 6 and 8 seconds (DO NOT TUG ON IT). The hair should release close to the established time of 8 seconds.
• after the hair is free, release the foot pedal. The galvanic current now continues to flow automatically for a further 2 seconds (after-count) and then shuts off.

The 'after-count' is usually not necessary for finer hairs. Therefore, the Sofblend T-80 is programmed such that 'after-count' is only applied if the galvanic current is 0.5 milliamp or higher. If you are working around this change-over point, you might like to adjust the Needle Current such that 'after-count' either is or is not applied. For example

Needle Current = 0.4mA, Treatment time = 8 secs Units of Lye = 32 After-count NO

Needle Current = 0.5mA, Treatment time = 6.5 secs Units of Lye = 32.5 After-count = YES

Blend in automatic (auto insertion detection), or semi-automatic foot pedal (flashing 'P') on the Sofblend T-80

Switch the epilator to Thermolysis only. Assuming 60 unit hairs in this example, you will still need to determine the thermolysis Intensity Level % setting.

Using auto insertion, or semi-automatic (foot pedal) set the Intensity Level % to 40 and a Pulse Count of 3. Try epilating one or two hairs and if they don't epilate properly, increase the Pulse Count or Intensity Level % until they do. We will assume for this example that you will set the epilator Intensity Level % to 40 and the Pulse Count to 4.

To determine the treatment seconds and needle current, we need to refer to chart 54 on page 21 of the Owners Manual where you will note that for an Intensity Level % of 40 at 4 pulses, the time is 3.8 seconds. Add 4 seconds for pre and post galvanic (after-count) treatment for a total treatment time of 7.8 seconds. Round off to 8 seconds.

Switch the epilator back to Blend and set the Treatment Secs on the epilator to 8 seconds. Now press and hold the Blend button and using your other hand, adjust the Needle Current milliamp setting to give a units-of-lye reading (temporarily shown in the Intensity Level % display) closest to 60. In this example the closest is 56 with a Needle Current of 0.7 milliamps, or 64 with a Needle Current of 0.8 milliamps.

To summarise, the settings in this example will be: Needle Current 0.8 milliamps, Treatment Secs 8, Intensity Level % 40 and the Pulse Count 4. You may find it necessary to adjust either of the settings by a small amount once you begin the regular treatment.

Pre-set levels on the Sofblend T-80

Taking the Sofblend Pre-set level 2 (see Manual page 19 Rev.1), under automatic conditions, the unit has been programmed to generate 45 units-of-lye. The galvanic current is applied on its own for 1.9 secs (one quarter of the total treatment time of 7.5 secs), then HF is added as 4 pulses at Intensity Level % 45, which takes a further 3.8secs (from page 21), after which, the galvanic current continues as 'after-count' for the remaining 1.8 secs (7.5 - 1.9 - 3.8 = 1.8).

In conclusion

Manual blend is performed manually using two hands. The starting point for manual blend Intensity Level % is 30 to 35%

Auto blend is for electrologists performing single-handed treatment. The starting point for auto blend Intensity Level % is 40 to 45%.

The reason for differing starting points is based on the fact that in manual we have no idea how long the pedal is going to be held pressed while in auto, the number of pulses is pre-set.

Footnote 1

In our experience, most people do not count seconds "in their head" accurately , and a true elapsed time of 8 seconds is often estimated to have taken only 5 seconds or even less. Therefore, on the Sofblend T-80 operating in Manual mode, the actual treatment time is displayed in the Treatment Secs window.

The manual treatment time displayed is accurate to 1 second and is a more accurate measurement than obtained by counting. We believe that counting errors by electrologists may be the cause of exaggerated reports of how short, or how long a time it takes to epilate a particular hair by a particular method.

Footnote 2

Assuming that you are working as a sole practitioner in electrolysis, you may have no particular need to keep track of the time which you spend with a particular client, and therefore may find the Session Timer to be unnecessary. If this applies, you can set the Sofblend T-80 to operate continuously without session timing.

To achieve this, simply hold the UP button on the Session Timer pressed until the display window shows "--" (the next step after 95 minutes). Thereafter, the epilator can be used without any session time restrictions, and there should be no need for you ever to consider Session Timing again, since even if when the epilator is turned off and back on again, the "--" remains. To return to standard session timing operation, simply press the Clear button in the session timing panel.

Footnote 3

In Automatic or semi-automatic mode, the energy levels of thermolysis are controlled so that the energy increases almost linearly as the Intensity Level setting increases for any given number of pulses.

In order for this to happen, the timing of thermolysis pulses is set to specific values, which has already been pointed out, do not always seem to make sense. For example, working on 3 pulses at Intensity Level 40% takes 3.2 seconds (including off time) to give an energy level of '40', whereas 3 pulses at Intensity Level 80% takes only 2.7 seconds to give an energy level of '80' i.e.it takes less time for higher energy. This happens because of the 'square' law governing power.

When operating in Manual mode, the thermolysis pulse timing is fixed at roughly 0.7 secs 'ON' time and 0.3 seconds 'OFF' time, regardless of Intensity Level. As a result, the energy level variation is not as linear as in Automatic mode, and comparing chart 53 for Automatic mode on page 20 of the manual with chart shown below for Manual mode, one can see that the 'useful' region is smaller in Manual, especially when the pedal is held pushed for only one or two seconds.

Note that the Manual chart uses pedal duration as one parameter, and that the number of pulses shown for each column is the number of ON/OFF pulses which happen in the time allotted.